Tree-Of-Headache, or another tough invasive

Here is a view of the cut stems of the tree-of-heck on our property. Notice that some mulberry trees have managed to grow in the Ailanthus nightmare patch. We hope to retain most of the mulberry trees as part of our chicken-feed growing operations. Chickens and ducks love mulberries, and I do think it makes their eggs taste better.

Ailanthus altissima, commonly known as the Tree-of-Heaven, was introduced in the late-18th Century as an ornamental street tree. That was a mistake. It spread aggressively- a fast growing, root suckering, partial-root-piece propagating nightmare.

As part of our 'remediate this totally neglected homestead' homestead project, we have a good 6000 square feet of Ailanthus. It was allowed to grow, and to root sucker, and to grow some more, until (now) it morphed into a single large Ailanthus mother tree and tens of her off shoots. It makes that piece of property useless for anything but Ailanthus, and Spotted Lantern Fly (which, go figure, loves Ailanthus), and that's about it. In remediating that part of the property we aim to remove the Ailanthus, to monitor and chemically control any new shoots for several years, and to plant some trees and competitive plants to keep the Ailanthus at bay.

As I kind of hinted, controlling Ailanthus isn't like removing a pine tree. It will aggressively grow from cut stumps and new shoots, and the extensive root system is almost impossible to destroy mechanically as new shoots cut propogate from even small, leftover 'pieces'. If we were to rely completely on mechanical methods, it would take years of physically cutting the sprouts in order to (hopefully... eventually...) reduce energy stores enough that finally the tree stops growing.

That's a lot of seasons.

The Big Challenge of Ailanthus

Ailanthus altissima is notorious for its rapid growth and ability to sprout from roots and stumps. It produces a large number of seeds and can regenerate quickly after cutting. This makes it difficult to remove completely without a multi-step approach. Relying just on mechanical means, or just on chemical controls are not effective. You gotta hit it with a two-banger tactic, and that is what we did.

Step 1: Hack and Squirt Treatment

Last summer, we took our first steps in getting the problem tree (and all her little tree-lings) under control. We started with chemical controls, or the hack and squirt method. So, axe in one hand, and 12.5% glyphosate-in-diesel in the other, we squeezed through the dense underbrush to blaze ( fancy, logging term for 'cut') and spray... (not so fancy) the herbicide into the exposed cambium. It is important not to 'girdle' the tree. Girdling meaning exposing the cambium ( the vascular layer below the bark (more or less)) completely around the tree. The problem with doing this is that it shocks the tree and, in the case of Ailanthus, causes an aggressive, Hydra-like growth along it's whole root system. This also prevents adequate transport of herbicide into the root system, and so defeats the purpose of our herbicide application, which is to get the chemical deep into the root system.

By retaining bark, and timing the herbicide application in the late-Summer/Fall, we take advantage of the natural action whereby the tree is transporting photosynthate to the roots in order to build carbohydrate stores. In effect, the herbicide is along for the ride, and gets transported into the root system where it can then go to work on killing the entire root network.

Why Hack and Squirt Works

• It minimizes herbicide use by targeting only the tree

• Reduces damage to surrounding plants

• Effective on larger trees that are difficult to cut down immediately

  
  

How We Applied It

• Made angled cuts around the trunk about 6-12 inches apart

• Injected a systemic herbicide (glyphostate) into each cut

• Treated all visible trees in the 6,000 square foot area

  
  

This treatment slowed the growth and weakened the trees. There was significant flagging by late-Fall, before leaf drop, where leaves had turned brown early, and then did not Fall.

Step 2: Cutting Down Smaller Trees in Winter

This Winter, we got about to cutting down the saplings. The lack of heavy foliage made the work easier, and we also took advantage of the cold weather to get rid of the mounds of old logs the previous owner had invited local tree companies to 'dump' on his property. Prior to removing the logs, it was difficult to navigate the area due to terrible footing, but as we removed more logs and then more trees, it became easier.

This was actually pretty easy work - mostly forestry mower (basically, an 80CC Stihl Weed Wacker with a steel head) or, for the larger 3-4" diameter trees, a chainsaw. We cut and burned the wood to remove as much woody debris and clean the area as much as possible.

Controversy # 1 Grinding the Stumps

I cut to such depth so as to see the stubs sticking out of the snow, but when the snow melted we had 6-8" punji sticks, sticking out of the ground. I know that grinding them down can possibly trigger the hydra-effect of regrowth along the root system, but I'm hoping that this will be mitigated by our Fall herbicide treatment. A bunch of stubs are just annoying trip hazards.

So, by stump grinding the spars we are leaning into mechanical control. There is an energy cost to re-sprout new stalks, and the greater the energy cost we inflict on the tree (and root system) the weaker it gets. Tree growth requires a positive balance in the energy trade, and the more you can effect a negative energy deficit on the tree, the more you are degrading it's ability to grow.

Having removed the stumps, we have easier access to brush hog the area, and to observe, identify, and spray any re-sprouts. Reducing friction is a key part of controlling invasive plants over time- the easier it is to identify, to access the area, to mow or spray, the more likely we are to do the work required to reclaim this lost dirt. In effects, it's easier to do the easier work.

Controversy#2 - The Mother Tree is Still Standing

Yeah, about that...

So, while I trust somewhat my timing and the concentration of glyphosate used in knocking back the Ailanthus mother tree, were I to cut it cut it down and grind the stump, I would have eliminated the means of effectively macro-dosing herbicide into the root system.

I left the mother tree in-tact for a Garlon 4A application this coming summer via a Basal Bark application. Research points to this herbicide being the more effective one for Ailanthus. I figure a bit of patience, another season, and another hit of woody plant eradicator can't hurt. With Invasive and Noxious Weeds, it's the long game that counts.

Where from Here...

Like I said 1, 2, 3 lines ago... with Invasive and Noxious Weeds, it's the long game that counts.

The key to controlling this area in the long term, like controlling any invasive, is to reduce the friction or difficulty of the work, and then follow up. After all the work in 'clearing the land' it is easy to get discouraged with the consistent, follow up work still needed. However, there are some mental assists for keeping on top of this. Motivation in restoring or remediating land is very personal. My own thoughts on returning land to a natural, healthy state comes from Genesis 2:15

"And the Lord God took the Man and put him in the Garden of Eden to work it and take care of it."

If the big guy upstairs thinks it's important, then who am I to argue.