
As this crazy cold snap finally leaves us ( and temperatures rise from arctic normal, to Windsor normal for February) we took advantage of cold, clean weather to do some pruning on our fruit trees. We have a bit of land that has raspberries, invasive ailanthus, and clusters of mulberry. Raspberries make great picking and eating for the boys, the ailanthus must be handled before it gets out of hand, and mulberry can be picked, squished, and made into Mulberry syrop which can be used with molasses on pancakes, or mixed into carbonated water for a healthy alternative to chemical sodas.
This article is mostly about our mulberries, but the same principle can be used for apple trees or other fruit trees.

Why Pruning Fruit Trees Matters
None of the trees on the property had been looked after when we moved in a year ago, and so we used this first dormant season to get to work on the trees.
Our goal with pruning was to open up the canopy to better air flow, and to control the size and height of the trees to make fruit picking easier. There was little to no dead branches on most of the trees.
Proper pruning helps:
Increase fruit size and quality
Improve sunlight penetration
Reduce risk of disease
Make harvesting easier
Maintain tree structure and strength
When to Prune Your Fruit Trees
Given that we are in our slower period of the year, and with a positive weather forecast (ie the end of a cold snap, rather than the beginning) we opted to use this weekend to get a handle on our trees. I prefer winter fruit tree pruning, especially late winter, as the leafless trees allow us to very clearly see the canopy. Pathogens are also less active. While Spring and even early Summer is an acceptable time for fruit tree pruning, you don't get the same, clear view of the tree scaffolding. Avoid any pruning in the early Autumn, as it can stimulate re-growth before winter, and the new tissue might not be hardened off adequately before the cold sets in.
How to Prune Fruit Trees Step-by-Step
1. Remove Dead, Damaged, or Diseased Wood
Start by cutting out any branches that are clearly dead, broken, or show signs of disease. These branches do not produce fruit and can harbor pests.
2. Thin Out Crowded Branches
Look for branches that cross or rub against each other. Remove the weaker or less well-placed branch to improve airflow and light penetration.
3. Cut Back Water Sprouts and Suckers
Water sprouts are vigorous vertical shoots that grow from branches, and suckers grow from the base of the tree. These do not bear fruit and take energy from the tree. Remove them close to their origin.
4. Shape the Tree
Aim for an open center or central leader shape depending on the tree species:
Open center: Remove the central leader to create a vase shape. This works well for peach, plum, and apricot trees.
Central leader: Maintain a single main trunk with well-spaced lateral branches. Common for apple and pear trees.
5. Shorten Long Branches
Cut back overly long branches to encourage lateral growth and more fruiting wood. Make cuts just above a bud facing outward.
In Summary
Keep in mind that improper pruning technique can really hurt your trees. While fruit trees are more 'pruning tolerant' than an old hardwood forest tree, there are a few things to keep in mind.
DON'T Over-prune: Removing too much can stress the tree and reduce fruit yield. Limit cuts to about 20-30% of the tree’s canopy.
DON'T Leave stubs: Cut branches cleanly at the collar to promote healing. Stubs invite pests and disease. Minimize the internodal cuts only where you want to stimulate vigorous growth.
DON'T Ignore tool hygiene: Clean tools with rubbing alcohol or bleach solution between trees to prevent spreading disease.
Regular pruning keeps your fruit trees healthy and productive year after year. It reduces disease pressure, and maximizes the production of healthy fruit. Sharp tools, a disinfecting agent, some basic do's and don't of tree structure, and calm patience are all you really need to grow excellent fruit trees. It can be a bit of work, but the rewards of a small orchard or a living, perennial fruit garden are worth the effort.

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